Photography by Alice Gao
You’ve heard of nose-to-tail cooking. You’re all too familiar with chefs using all parts of the beast from snout to trotter, and ox tongue to ox tail. Now we’re applying those rules to the humble watermelon. If you don’t compost, it can feel a little wasteful throwing away all that abundant watermelon rind once you’re done butchering the fruit for its tasty, juicy innards. Avert those feelings of guilt; here’s a simple way to transform the rind from inedible to downright delicious.
Don’t roll your eyes like that, this watermelon rind relish isn’t one of those recipes that you feel self-righteous preparing, but tastes a little funky, like seitan curry – it’s actually genuinely great-tasting. The white or creamy colored rind being mild in flavor, okay bland, cooks down to a tender consistency and absorbs all the flavors it’s cooked with. Here, it takes on the fiery heat of jalapeno pepper, the zingyness of the vinegar and ginger and sweetness from the brown sugar. And the relish is given a further fruity boost from a little mango and papaya. If you tried watermelon pickle or relish before, you’ll note that one thing stands out in this recipe, I’ve left the green watermelon skin on. Most recipes call for it to be peeled off, since it doesn’t become as tender as the rind and can maintain a chewy leatheriness. Personally, I like the chew, and the textural contrast it provides to the soft rind and other fruit, but if this doesn’t appeal to you, feel free to remove the skin.
The relish pairs excellently with grilled pork, chicken and fish. I bet it would also be delightful with cold cuts, and cured meats, and perhaps even the right hard cheese.
Recipe after the jump…
Watermelon Rind, Mango and Papaya Relish
2 cups diced watermelon rind (green skin removed, if preferred)
1/4 cup diced watermelon flesh
1 cup diced mango flesh
1 cup diced papaya flesh
1/2 to 1 medium jalapeno pepper, finely minced
1 medium shallot, finely sliced
1 tsp. finely grated ginger
2/3 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup packed soft brown sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
In a 3-quart saucepan, combine 3/4 cup of water with all the other ingredients. Bring to the boil over medium high heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves, about 4 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer, stirring every now and then, until the rind is translucent and tender, the mixture has thickened and the juices are syrupy, about 40 minutes. Increase the heat during the last 5 to 10 minutes, if the relish still has a lot of liquid. Season to taste with salt, and let cool to room temperature before serving. The relish will keep in the fridge for a couple of months in an airtight container.
